An Introduction
The sprawling city of Kathmandu is as vivid in my memory as it was during my visit in 2019. The city is big, chaotic, and magical! Yes, those three words are not mutually exclusive.
One of my favorite memories from Kathmandu was staying at a local hostel during off season. The hostel had no central heat, so that meant dressing in layers all the time before tea at the rooftop. Despite the cool temperatures in February, the views from the hostel’s rooftop cafe made up for it. I am not making money off of endorsing this now-renamed hostel; at the time, it was called “Santipur Hostel” or something similar to ‘peace’, and I am sure that a lot about it has probably changed, but I choose to name it here:
Planet Nomad Hostel
Kaldhara 16, Paknajol Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal
Prices range from $4 – 10 USD / night
You now know about my secret hostel spot, despite it probably being far from hidden. I will also provide some insight on my favorite things about Kathmandu and things to do/see.
Thamel
The neighborhood of Thamel is vibrant and happening – always. The colors, sounds, and sometimes smells can be wonderful and overwhelming in the best senses of the words. From handmade scarves to dresses and momo shops, the backpacker scene is alive and well here. The scene is here and has remained for all the right reasons. Let me explain. Nepal and specifically Kathmandu is for you if you like: challenging your senses, pushing yourself, eating and/or enjoy hiking!
Buddha Stupa
Near the neighborhood of Thamel is a way up to the Buddha Stupa. I am not able to give the best directions to this spot. I happened to meet a fellow traveler and largely relied on her guidance. However, the way up provides some of the best views of Kathmandu and the mountains on a clear day! The experience only gets better as you reach the top. You can see statues and local customs in motion.
Kathmandu Durbar Square
To reach the stupa from the hostel, you should pass through or be very close to Kathmandu Durbar Square. This square is wonderful for people watching, siting to have a tea or reflecting on your travels. The square is kind of the center of Kathmandu. Yet, due to the city’s large size, I think there are many plazas or squares like this across the city.
From stupas to tea and momos, you should have a fairly strong sense of the city by now. The following recommendation is not for the faint-of-heart. This recommendation is also not meant to be an experience, in my opinion, to be rushed or had within the first day or two of your arrival. Let me further explore why I am saying this.
Pashupatinath Temple: Spirituality and Death
A well-known and incredibly powerful landmark in Kathmandu is sometimes referred to as a ‘burning ghat’ (ghat: set of stairs down to a river). What does this mean?
This refers to a belief system common in Hinduism and Buddhism. Cremation at the end of someone’s life is seen as natural. The process of death is also considered natural. Death is not to be seen as negative or something to be feared, but rather something of a rebirth.
Below are two photos I took.
The first photo on the left depicts a little girl sitting on the steps while watching the beginning of a ceremony. The second photo shows what occurred about 15-20 minutes after the ceremony began. The photos are meant to represent the beauty, a culture, and my perspective that I experienced. In no way are these images meant to be upsetting or taken without careful consideration and contextual knowledge.
I found the first photo to be profound because it challenged me. I had grown up with the idea that death was scary and often very sad. Meanwhile, this girl who seemed young sat and watched without seeming afraid. She embodied, in my opinion, a different and less negative perspective of death than I had at her age. Death again was not seen as a negative or fearful experience, but rather an opportunity for rebirth and renewal. Something about this in concert with the curiosity sometimes associated with childhood made me rethink my own perspective(s) on death. As the marigolds suggest, death can maybe be a celebration rather than pure sorrow.
Kathmandu- the city that changed my perspective on death. If you ever are so lucky as to visit Nepal, please allow for ample time to sip tea and sit in Kathmandu! -K
Stampchaser Photography 